Mukesh Kaushik from United News of India was amongst the five national media taken to the Nathu La by the Indian Army to Nathu La to witness both countries observing the Independence Day of India.
Here is his first person account-
It was 3:30 early in the morning, when six of us were
bundled into three olive green Maruti Gypsies with a 54 km long journey ahead
of us. We were told a day before that it is not advisable to travel to Nathu la
in the late evening as the road leading to the post is really narrow and in a
very bad shape having deep gorges of 1000 to 2000 feet alongside. For good half
an hour, these warnings proved to be hollow as the first stretch of 10 km was
smooth and we were fast catching up on our lost sleep. After crossing “5 miles”
- the place which came after 10 km of drive - there was literally no road left.
It was completely off route, a road which was heading towards the Indo-China
border post of Nathu La. It was virtually impossible for a non-four wheel drive
vehicle to ply on this road. The rain and the ensuing landslides had aggravated
the conditions of the roads.
Our vehicles were somehow wading through the boulders and
every bump was rattling our bones. Being a defence correspondent I had been
hearing about the infrastructure development in the north-east region, but this
firsthand experience was underlining the fallacy of the claims.
In the meanwhile, sun had started to light the overcast
cloud. After two hours of the back breaking ride our caravan of came to a halt.
It was, we were told, "17 miles" - a military station where we were
supposed to be having our breakfast.
Sleeplessness coupled with the bumpy ride had completely over shadowed our enthusiasm of becoming the proud witness of historic occasion of Independence Day celebration where Chinese PLA officers and their family members were invited for the first time in presence of both countries’ media. Border personnel meetings were regularly taking place every year on 15th May and 15th September, in China and India respectively. In an apparent attempt to clear the misconceptions amongst the general public and to further strengthen the confidence building measures, governments of the two Asian giants had decided to invite each others’ media to witness the national day events - 15 August on this side and 1st of Oct on China side, which is their national day. And it was our turn first. I from UNI, Anshuman Datta from PTI, Prafull Singh from Video News Agency ANI and Nandita Dagar with AIR representative Saubhagya Kar were racing against time to reach Nathu La, an ancient silk trade route on Indo China border post which was still more than 30 km away from the place where we were being served hot tea. When we moved from our first halt, it started to drizzle adding colours to the abundance of beauty floating outside and also adding to our woes as the non-existent roads were filled by mud. Vapours on the front screen made it impossible for our trained army driver to speed up the car.
It was 6:30 AM when we could manage to reach Changu Lake,
still some 15 km away from Nathu La. Changu has changed since I last visited it
12 years ago. I remember that there was a small market at the left flank of the
lake. A small hut shaped café house has replaced it now having a sign
board which claimed that the facility was built by the AWAA (Army Wives’
Welfare Association) for the benefit of soldiers passing from this difficult
route. Changu was wearing a thin white sheet of clouds over it, as though she
was trying to ward of the piercing morning rays of the sun.
We reached Nathu La at around 8 o'clock. It was completely
changed. Ten years ago, a thin barbed wire loosely tied to equally dilapidated wooden
poles divided the nations, who fought a brief but bloody war in the same sector
in 1962. Five years after the war the ceasefire along this border was broken
again as China opened fire on Indian soldiers trying to tighten the loose
barbed wire. Since then the rusty wire has not been removed and kept on as a
souvenir, as one officer put it.
The cafe house type of the Indian post with slanted tin roof
was standing tall there in red colour and a three story “multipurpose
building" right behind the Indian post which had come up in the past
decade. A huge wooden gate, with dragon picture on its mast was separating the
two countries and a red carpet was awaiting the PLA contingent with tri-colour
and Chinese national flags fluttering all around. The post was bustling with
activities while rehearsal of national anthem, parade and sitting arrangements
were being given final touches. "How many of them are coming?"
Commanding officer of the host unit Colonel Rajnish Singh was enquiring from
his junior officer, who told him that Senior Colonel Wang Ji Ping, who has been
travelling overnight from Yangtu, to take part in the ceremony is leading a
forty member strong delegation. "Wives of some the officers are also insisting
to come," the officer informed CO. He firmly said no to last minute
additions. "Note down names of all the guests," he instructed in
hush-hush tone to another officer who was well versed with the Chinese
language. And like the curious neighbours, Chinese soldiers and officers were
anxiously awaiting the ceremony to begin. They were armed with mobile phones,
continuously capturing the jolly moods of Indians.
Sharp at 9, the gate was opened as PLA contingent marched in
unison to Indian post. They were received by a Brigadier level officer of the
Indian Army as the Chinese delegation was led by a Senior Colonel, a rank
equivalent to a Brigadier in Indian army. Brigadier Ravi Jhaldiyal of 63
brigade, entrusted for the security of the area along China border gave a warm
welcome to his Chinese counterpart, as he along with his delegation marched
towards a podium where the national flags of the two nations were waiting to be
unfurled with petals of roses, favourite flower of Pt Nehru, and a proponent of
Hindi-Chini Bhai Bhai slogan, tied to their ends. As the two top army officers
unfurled their flags, a military band announced the beginning of the ceremony.
After the national anthem of the two countries, the Chinese delegation was
escorted to conference hall where the two sides held a customary border
personnel meeting for few minutes. And thus began the real celebration for
which both sides were preparing themselves, perhaps for quite a long time.
Chinese girls wearing typical Indian Ghagras and choli danced on famous
Bollywood number "desh mera rangila". To match it, the Indian army
deployed its brigade Bhangra dancers which forced the chief guest and the chief
host to come on the dance floor.
Cultural hungama culminated with exchanges of gift packs.
Indian and Chinese men in uniform were seen hugging and clicking each other at
time of saying good bye. They will now again be posted against on either side
of the tranquil and peaceful border, without the guns in their hand off course.
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